Venezuela: A Tale of Two Countries

With its Caribbean coastline, exotic wildlife, expansive savannahs, golden deserts, magical waterfalls, palm-fringed beaches, spectacular mountain ranges, sweltering rainforests, turquoise waters, and tropical weather to name but a few, Venezuela lo tiene todo. Little wonder Christopher Columbus – the first European to set foot in the country in 1498 – described it as ‘Paradise on Earth’.

However, the current economic and social reality in Venezuela are anything but paradisiacal. Economic meltdown, triggered by the collapse in global oil prices (for which Venezuela relies on 95 per cent of its revenue), has left the country on the verge of bankruptcy. Once the richest country in Latin America, Venezuela’s foreign reserves dropped below $10bn for the first time in 2017, much of it held in gold, leaving the government cash-strapped and unable to import sufficient foodstuffs and medicines. Rampant inflation and food scarcity cause thousands of Venezuelans to skip daily meals. Dubbed the ‘Maduro Diet’ after the country’s President, Nicolás Maduro, one recent study reported that in 2017 almost three-quarters of the population lost an average of 8.7kg per person. The healthcare system is also on the brink of collapse. For example, the Pharmaceutical Federation of Venezuela estimates that the country lacks 85 per cent of the medicines and surgical materials it needs. Violent crime is also endemic as Caracas routinely features atop the ‘world’s most murderous city’ rankings.

A few weeks ago, I returned from my third visit to Venezuela in the last four years. Because of the lack of information outside mainstream media, I want to share my experience with anyone keen to know more about this amazing but complex country. In this piece, I offer a tourist’s perspective with snippets on Venezuelan history, politics, and culture, but start with some practical advice for anyone contemplating a visit.

Plan and Go Prepared

The Irish (and British) Government now advises against all but essential travel to most of Venezuela and against all travel to the isthmus that runs parallel to the Colombian border. In practical terms, this puts a premium on travel insurance and (possibly) limits government assistance during times of political upheaval. Generally, travel insurance companies don’t pay out if Government advice is not to travel. I booked my insurance with Voyager, a company that specialises in providing cover to countries that are deemed high risk. Also, Ireland doesn’t have an Embassy in Venezuela, thus travelling there has its risks and requires careful planning.

First, it’s advisable to make an appointment with your GP before travelling. If it’s your first time, try and visit your GP four weeks beforehand. The yellow fever vaccination is recommended even though the certificate is not a requirement for entry. It’s not available on the NHS and costs between £60-80. The inoculation is needed 10 days prior to travelling to have effect. On each trip, I’ve been prescribed a four-week course of antibiotics to take prophylactically for mosquito-borne diseases such as malaria etc. This is important given the medicine shortages mentioned above. Last year, I got eaten alive by mosquitos in Choroní so bring adequate supplies of mosquito repellent. I find Jungle (50% DEET) to be the best. Some pharmacies have their own cheaper brands but Jungle has a longer lasting effect. Also, bring an antihistamine cream to relief itching from bites. They can be bought over the counter, but again, if you’re unsure ask your GP. Bring high UVA protection sun-cream and always keep a packet of tissues and hand sanitizer in your pocket/bag. Don’t expect to find toilet paper or soap in public toilets, be it in shopping malls, airports or restaurants.

Travel options to Venezuela are increasingly limited and expensive as airlines continue to withdraw from the country. Each time I’ve flown with Air France on half-empty aircrafts from Paris to Caracas. The return leg, however, is always fully booked as more and more people leave in search of greener pastures. If you need to leave the country earlier than anticipated, options are limited. When travelling inside Venezuela carry your passport at all times. On my first trip, the National Guard (Police) threatened to arrest me for not having identification when stopped at a checkpoint. After paying a bribe of a few dollars, I continued on my way. Not much but in the local currency it was the equivalent of a monthly salary!

Arriving at Simón Bolívar International Airport

The Simón Bolívar International airport on the outskirts of Caracas is notoriously dangerous. Passing through can be quite stressful. Devoid of passengers, passport control is relatively quick and seamless. Officials generally don’t speak English, so it helps if you can state the purpose of your visit, where you’ll be staying and for how long, in Spanish, if asked. Keep a low profile. Don’t wear expensive jewellery and keep valuables out of sight. It’s reported that bogus airport officials work in concert with criminal gangs. Avoid taxis, even ones that look official. Instead, arrange for someone you trust to meet you in the arrivals hall to facilitate your onward journey. Ignore any overtures to assist with luggage or currency exchange and never linger outside the airport. If you need to check your phone or want to have a cigarette wait until you are in a private/secure place. An Egyptian national was shot dead outside the main airport doors in 2016 after resisting a robbery. Stay alert at all times.

The journey from the airport to Caracas is bewildering. Thousands upon thousands of multi-coloured, jerry-built slum houses are stacked on top of one another – a bit like the final stages of a game of Jenga – on the hills and mountains that surround the city. A famous Venezuelan song by Alí Primera refers to them as Las casas de carton (Houses of Cardboard). Juxtaposed to this extreme poverty, in the east of the city, are all the trappings of oil wealth from a bygone era: sky scrapers, affluent apartment blocks, luxurious hotels and shopping malls. On the streets, emaciated adults, children and stray dogs rummage through bin bags in search of whatever waste food they can find. A distressing and visible sign of Venezuela’s rapid deterioration since my first visit in 2014.

Venezuelan currency, the Bolívar (Bs.), is not freely convertible and thus the $US dollar is king in Venezuela – or lechuga verde (green lettuce) as the locals call it. Venezuela has a complicated multi-tiered official exchange rate system. If you use this your money will quickly become worthless because of the country’s hyperinflation. A parallel black-market exchange rate exists (see Dolartoday.com for daily fluctuations) which is illegal but has become the defacto rate used by Venezuelans. Remember, any surplus Bolívars cannot be converted back at the end of your stay. Also, never use your credit card. If you do you’ll be charged the official rate and face a hefty bill on your return. Because of the economic crisis and hyperinflation, it is difficult for Venezuelans to get hold of cash – most transactions are done electronically, even for menial payments. During the collection at the Christmas Mass, a handheld card reader was passed around for parishioners to make donations! Therefore, it’s better if your host handles all payments using their Venezuelan bank account. When passing through the airport keep any dollars secure, out of sight, and preferably not all in the same place. My advice is to bring $50 bills.

IMG-20180531-WA0000
$1 in Venezuelan Bolivars

Mochima National Park and New Year’s Eve Celebrations

To celebrate the New Year, I took a 45-minute flight ($5) from Caracas to the General José Anzoátegui International Airport in Barcelona, before taking a privately arranged taxi to Punta Palma Hotel in Puerto La Cruz. An old hotel in need of major refurbishment with poor customer service and Wi-Fi connection, this hotel is the best that Puerto La Cruz has to offer. Some friends and I hired a lancha (small boat) to explore the beauty of Parque Nacional Mochima, created in 1973 to protect the Turimiquire Massif and its forests along Venezuela’s east coast. Long-beaked dolphins, Guiana dolphins, humpback whales, Bryde’s whales, pilot whales and sperm whales can be found in Mochima’s waters. I was able to capture some videos of long-beaked dolphins swimming alongside the lancha. The marine park is also home to four endangered species of sea turtles, including the leatherback turtle, loggerhead turtle, green turtle and hawksbill turtle. It’s beyond contemptible that construction projects, including the Pertigalete cement plant, are allowed to continue to threaten, pollute and destroy the ecosystem of this amazing park. Mochima is also famous for its incredible beaches. Over a few days we visited Playa El Saco, where you can enjoy fried fish and plantain fritters, Isla Puinare, and Isla El Faro which has underwater caves ideal for snorkelling. During busy periods, the park’s tranquillity is often spoiled as Venezolanos blast reggaeton music from yachts docked near the beaches. Dive bombing pelicans and iguanas are also common sights.

On New Year’s Eve, hundreds of guests gathered at the hotel for what’s normally the traditional Venezuelan Christmas dinner. Various culinary dishes reflect the country’s miscegenation from colonial times, including Pan de Jamón, Ensalada de Gallina, Pernil de Cochino, Hallaca and Dulce de Lechoza (Ham Bread, Chicken Salad, Pork, Hallaca and Papaya Dessert). Hallaca is the main serving, an intricate culinary work of art that takes hours of preparation. They are little rectangular food parcels of corn flour that comprise different meats, peppers, onions, leeks, raisins, capers, and olives, all wrapped, tied and then boiled in banana leaves. Muy sabroso!

Bailadores and Teleférico de Mérida Mukumbarí

Los Andes was next on the itinerary. After a one-hour flight ($5) from Caracas to El Vigia and a further 1.5 hour drive we arrived in Bailadores. En route we stopped in the town of Zea to visit the Church of Our Lady of Las Mercedes and to see El Santo Niño de Cuchilla. Each year thousands of Venezuelans make the pilgrimage to Zea to pray in front of this 10cm alabaster figurine of Infant Jesus, encased in a wooden box. As we arrived, men, women and children were congregating to say the rosary.

As we made our way to the hotel, we passed queues of traffic, hundreds of cars long, all waiting for petrol. It’s hard to fathom how a country with the world’s largest oil reserves faces petrol shortages at the pumps. Agriculture is one of the main economic drivers in this region, where ploughs are still drawn by cattle in the mountains.

We stayed at Estancia La Vera Cruz, a world-class resort in Tovar that continues to attract well-heeled Venezuelan tourists, despite the country’s difficulties. Estancia grows its own produce, everything from vegetables and herbs to exotic fruits – autosustentable! During our stay, we visited Laguna de las Palmas – colloquially known as Laguna Brava – an incredible lagoon, nestled high in the mountains and surrounded by palm trees; a perfect place for a picnic and some miche (Andean liquor). I captured some nice aerial photos of Bailadores on the valley’s floor when ascending through the mountains. Afterwards, we visited La Cascada de la India Carú, a beautiful waterfall linked to the legend of Princess Carú whose nuptials would connect with the Mocotíes Indians. A magical place.

The following day, our bodyguard drove us to the student city of Mérida, which is also the tourist hub of western Venezuela. Driving on Venezuela’s decaying roads feels like being on a roller-coaster at times. Don’t be surprised to see young children squeezed between adults on motorcycles bobbing and weaving through the traffic without helmets or people perched precariously on the back ledge of pick-up trucks.

The views of the Andes mountains as you approach the city are spectacular. In English, we tend to say the ‘great outdoors’ but I love how Venezuelans constantly use la naturelaza. It sounds much better. The teleférico (cable car) is the highest and second longest in the world. Inside the grounds, many slogans read: Aqui no se habla mal de Chávez (here nobody speaks bad of Chávez), Venezuela’s late socialist President. Modernised in 2011 and built by the French, the cable car system is one of the best in the world. From the ground, cars stop at three stations, where passengers join connecting cars, culminating at Pico Espejo – 4,765 metres above sea level. Because of the high altitude, tourists are asked to walk very slowly. Once you go above 3,000 metres altitude sickness is a possibility. (If you feel dizzy come back down to one of the stations below 3,000 metres and have a hot chocolate). On descent, I got off at Estación Loma Redonda to see Laguna Los Anteojos. I’m not sure if it was a horse or a burro I was on but I couldn’t resist a Vladimir Putin impersonation minus the t-shirt haha. Tickets for foreign tourists cost $50 ($2 for locals) and booking in advance is recommended.  If you visit try one of the famous batidos (smoothies) from the Mukumbatidos juice bar before you start your one-hour 12.5km cable journey.

Hacienda Santa Teresa – ¡Jugamos Rugby, Hacemos Ron!

Venezuela is famous for its rum. Founded in 1796, Santa Teresa is the oldest rum brand in the country. The distillery is situated circa 70km west of Caracas in the state of Aragua. Built around the El Consejo train station, the hacienda is surrounded by palm trees, hectares of sugar cane, with the Aragua mountains in the backdrop. A unique process known as the solera technique is used to distil the rum. Four rows of oak barrels are placed on top of one another and the rum is transferred from one barrel to the next as it matures. There are different varieties but Santa Teresa 1796 is the premium product. If you like rum you can order a bottle online for around £50. Santa Teresa is also renowned for rugby. After a group of armed gang members tried to rob the distillery in 2003, they were given two options: go to prison or pay their debt to society by working at the hacienda. This is when the owner, Mr Vollmer, started the highly successful Alcatraz Project, a social reintegration project that uses sport as a catalyst to promote social inclusion. All you’ll hear during the tour is people shout ¡JUGAMOS RUGBY, HACEMOS RON! (We play rugby, we make rum). Like the Teleférico and other tourist attractions, there is no English translation.

Colonia Tovar – ‘The Germany of the Caribbean’

After the tour, we made our way to Posada La Loma Brisa near the picturesque town of Colonia Tovar, founded by German immigrants in 1843. Along the way, we passed some public housing developments. Public investment under Chávez was channelled through a series of misiones (missions). Funded from the oil profits generated by the state oil company PdVSA, Misón Vivienda (Housing Mission) provides homes for low-income families that are rented or sold using long-term low interest rates. In one incident that went viral, a woman was granted an apartment after she threw and hit the country’s President, Nicolás Maduro, on the head with a mango. Although Chávez died in 2013, his presence is ubiquitous. His eyes and famed signature are stencilled and painted on Misón Vivienda apartment blocks, his eyes following you like the Mona Lisa. Despite the vast improvements it has made to lives of thousands of Venezuelans, the housing mission has been criticised for its long waiting lists, poor building materials and shoddy works. If you want to read more about this and other social missions, check out Venezuela: What Everyone Needs to Know by Miguel Tinker Salas.

The roads through the Aragua mountains are long, winding and dangerous; to get to La Loma Brisa you really need a 4×4. When we arrived, guests were playing bolas criollas. Introduced by a Spanish priest to entertain the slaves during colonial rule, the game is similar to bowls but played on a rectangular dirt pit with round balls weighing approximately 1kg. The posada’s owner, a French Horn musician, trained under El Sistema (The System). El Sistema is Venezuela’s internationally acclaimed youth orchestra programme. Founded by Jose Antonio Abreu, in 1975, it trains children from poor socio-economic backgrounds in classical music. On becoming President, Chávez greatly increased funding to the programme, helping it to attain international recognition. Inextricably bound up in the politics of Venezuela by virtue of its funding, members of El Sistema rose up last year after one of their fellow musicians – 18-year old violinist, Armando Cañizales, was killed during violent protests. The National Youth Orchestra tour was also recently cancelled by the country’s President, after El Sistema’s most famous son, Gustavo Dudamel, criticized the government. Dudamel, music director of both the Simón Bolívar Symphony Orchestra of Venezuela and the Los Angeles Philharmonic, rose to fame after winning the Gustav Mahler conducting prize in Germany in 2004.

A popular tourist activity in Colonia Tovar is parapente (paragliding). The birds eye views are amazing, all captured on GoPro by professional pilots. Flights last 15-minutes. The town itself is a key tourist attraction. Colonia Tovar’s milder climate is ideal for growing many types of fruits and vegetables; the Germans didn’t settle here by accident! It is particularly famous for its strawberries, jams, beer and Black Forest architecture. The most notable landmark is La Iglesia de San Martin (St Martin’s Church), built in 1863, a supposed replica of the Church of Endingen in Germany. Given its location, it’s hard to fathom how this town developed from an initial settlement of 300 Germans to what it is today. Impressive.

Posada La Ardileña and Morrocoy National Park

Perros callejeros (stray dogs) can be seen wondering everywhere in Venezuela. Perhaps for this reason, countless dead dogs lie decomposed at the sides of motorways. En route to Morrocoy, I stopped counting after fifteen in as many minutes. Blown out car tyres are another common sight. Because tyres are expensive in Venezuela, some people drive with little or no tread. We passed El Palito, one of Venezuela’s largest oil refineries in Moron. At the front of the refinery a gigantic sign read Viviremos y Venceremos (We will live and We will overcome), a phrase used by Chávez as he battled cancer. Palm trees guided the way for miles, until we reached La Ardileña, a beautiful posada at the water’s edge surrounded by mangrove forests. The next few days were spent paddle boarding, snorkeling, travelling to different islands and beaches, including Cayo Sombrero, Playa Azul and Bajo Caimán. We managed to catch sight of ospreys, flamingos, pelicans, palette herons and garcitas (white egrets). I preferred Morrocoy to Mochima, but likewise, beaches were littered and the reggaeton blasted.

Teleférico de Caracas and El Ávila National Park

The last couple of days were spent in Caracas. Another day, another national park – this time El Ávila. Venezuela has a land mass almost 10 times bigger than Ireland! After a 15-minute cable car ride into the mountains, a 4×4 taxied us to a little village called Galipán, founded by Canary Islanders some 200 years ago. After a great dinner in Granja Natalia, we walked along the footpath on the mountain ridgeline, through the clouds to the Humboldt Hotel. Built during the reign of Venezuelan dictator, General Marcos Pérez Jiménez, in 1956, it was closed immediately after his fall from power in 1958. As I was taking photos I got talking to an architect who was there on a private tour to hear about the hotel’s refurbishment. Despite being extensively renovated, it remains closed. As we began our descent in the cable car, one Venezuelan woman had a little pepper spray canister strapped to her hand. Others blessed themselves as they exited the car. For the first time during my three visits to Venezuela, the sense of fear was palpable.

Historic and Religious Landmarks in Caracas

My last day comprised a whistle-stop tour of the city’s key historic and cultural sites. First up, the National Pantheon of Venezuela, a neo-gothic church built in the 1870s that acts as a resting place for Venezuela’s national heroes. In 2013, next to the National Pantheon, a purpose-built mausoleum was constructed for the country’s independence leader, Simón Bolívar. At almost 180-metres in height, the mausoleum’s $140m avant-garde but austere architectural design stands in stark contrast to the National Pantheon. Covered in bright white tiles that rise in an ascending curve, some liken it to the snow-capped Andean mountains that Bolívar crossed in pursuit of the Spanish. Critics contend that it resembles a large skate-board ramp, a shopping mall, a bridal veil and even a sailing ship. While the outside design might divide opinion, its interior is very impressive. Bolívar rests in an initialed sarcophagus, flanked by four guardsmen. To the right of the coffin, six flag poles stand with raised banderas, one for each country that Bolívar liberated.

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Afterwards, it was on to National Assembly with its two neoclassical-type buildings, and then to the Romanesque colonial Cathedral near Bolívar Plaza which dates back to the mid 17-century. Its chapel is the burial site of Bolívar’s parents and wife. Each town and city in Venezuela has a plaza dedicated to Bolívar. Plaza Bolívar in Caracas is conspicuous with its imposing equestrian statue of El Libertador right in the heart of the old town. From there, it was on to Iglesia de San Francisco, a church built in 1593, dedicated to Francis of Assisi. Keen to know more about the history of Bolívar, I also visited Casa Natal del Libertador (Simon Bolívar’s birthplace) and Museo Bolivariano, which both contain pictures, paintings, and furniture that tell the story of Bolívar’s upbringing. The country, currency and airport are all named after him. I find it ironic that an aristocrat became the transcendent figure of Chavez’s socialist revolution!

Before rushing off to the airport, I wanted to visit Cuartel de la Montaña, the resting place of Hugo Chávez. A former military museum, Chavez’s remains lie high above 23 de Enero ­­– a working-class Chavista stronghold. A guide dressed in military fatigues, ushered a group of tourists around the fortress, giving a history lesson about Chávez and the Bolívarian Revolution. This cuartel (barracks) was the main base from which the Chávez-led MBR-200 movement launched its failed coup d’état in 1992, a few years after the Caracazo uprising against President Carlos Andrés Pérez and his implementation of crippling IMF austerity measures. A captured Chávez was permitted to speak on national television to appeal to his troops to surrender. Accepting responsibility for the failed operation, he gave his now famous speech, claiming that por ahora (for now) the movement had failed to achieve its objectives. A second coup against Pérez failed almost ten months later with Chávez still inside San Carlos military prison.

A charismatic but controversial leader, Chávez’s first electoral victory came in 1998 after he promised to share the oil wealth with the nation’s poor, defeating the triumvirate of the right-wing government, the oil companies and the Catholic Church. A 1998 poll by the New York Times – the same year Chávez was elected – showed that 85 per cent of Venezuelans felt cheated out of the country’s oil wealth. That changed dramatically under Chávez and when he was briefly ousted from power by an attempted coup d’état in 2002, the nation’s poor descended from their hillside barrios vociferously demanding his return. He was reinstated just 47 hours later! Check out RTE’s excellent documentary The Revolution Will Not Be Televised.

What Next for Venezuela? 

Since 2014, protests have erupted across Venezuela in response to hyperinflation, food and medical shortages, violent crime, and claims of government corruption and media censorship. To date, most protests have taken place in middle and upper-class neighbourhoods and on main arterial thoroughfares. Whilst the opposition supporters call for no más dictadura (no more dictatorship), millions of working-class citizens continue to support the socialist government. The country is divided. Even Venezuelan gorras (baseball caps) and use of the national flag distinguish opposition and government supporters. Opposition figures tend to use the flag with seven stars that represent each of Venezuela’s current provinces. Chávez added an eighth star to the national flag to represent the disputed territory of Guyana which was seized by the British after the discovery of gold in the mid to late 1800s.

Presidential elections are scheduled to take place before the end of April. Opposition parties are fractured, plagued by infighting, and have failed to offer a credible alternative to lift the country out of its current mess. On top of that, some well-known opposition leaders are in jail, under house arrest, banned from standing for election or in exile. Thus, anything other than another six-year term for the current President looks unlikely. More ominously for Venezuela, there has only ever been a democratic handover of power from an outgoing government to an incoming government on three occasions in the nation’s history.

The role of the United States shouldn’t be underplayed in all of this, which is of course one of skullduggery and self-interest. Last year Barack Obama outrageously claimed that Venezuela was a threat to US national security and, more recently, President Trump stated that a military-option would not be ruled out. While US military intervention is unlikely, it can never be ruled out, particularly given Venezuela’s oil reserves. The US will undoubtedly seek to influence change through its continued ban on debt trades and travel bans for senior Venezuelan officials. There have also been recent threats to ban oil imports although this would surely be damaging to the US’s economy too.

Venezuelans are like the Irish – warm, friendly, kind, and incredibly resilient. One thing the conflict in Ireland has taught us is that political crises can only be overcome by dialogue, compromise, and sheer political will. Let’s hope Venezuela can address its problems through a process of national dialogue that engages parties across the political spectrum, while respecting the democratic process. If it does I’m sure the country will rise again. It’s no more than Venezuelans deserve.

Author: Peter Shanks

ESRC PhD candidate University of Birmingham. Interested in corporate governance, organisational paradoxes, housing policy, Venezuela, boxing & GAA handball.

13 thoughts on “Venezuela: A Tale of Two Countries”

      1. Very interesting article Peter, we were on Isla Margarita some years ago and had an unexpected experience with a one eyed back street currency dealer, but that as they say is another story… Kathleen

        Liked by 1 person

      2. Thanks for reading Kathleen. My brother, his Dutch girlfriend and her family visited Margarita probably about 20 years ago now. It once attracted European tourists. Sadly not anymore.

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  1. Great blog Peter! Very good insite. When is the best time to visit Venezuela and is Caracas worth visiting? Any recommendations for tour guides? Any thing to avoid?
    Thanks, Brendan

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    1. Thanks Brendan. I’m not sure about the best time to visit Venezuela. Elections are scheduled for April so I would avoid visiting until post elections in case of any violent protests. In terms of tour guides, I can’t recommend any unfortunately. My girlfriend always organises everything when I go there. Caracas is a nice city but it can be dangerous. I would suggest being accompanied by a tour guide or local if you go there. There are many other places to visit. Angel Falls (Waku Tours), Los Roques (Posada Bequeve) and Bailadores (Estancia la Vera Cruz) are among my favourite. Hope this helps. If you’ve any other questions please let me know. Peter

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  2. Peter, I really enjoyed reading this. There are not many well-written and up-to-date sources of information like this one. I have a quick question: for British citizens, would you recommend getting a tourist visa beforehand or just getting it on arrival? Thanks

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    1. Thanks for your kind comments Eddy. For British citizens, a tourist visa is not necessary. You can enter the country and stay for up to 90 days with your passport. Hope this helps.

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  3. Hello, my friend , thanks for your sharing, i would like to visit to venezuela, but i am afraid of visit only, maybe you know to advise about that like security to me

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    1. Security can be a problem if you visit the wrongs place, stay out late at night, or display valuables in public. If you know a local there who you trust you will be fine. Venezuelans are very friendly. I am just home this week after a 5 week stay and had no issues at all.

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